Hardcore Luxury® Best Wool in the Woods®

Production Status

In general, the American Textile Industry is only a tiny fraction of its former self. In 1965, 95% of the clothing worn in America was Made in America. Now that number is 2.5%, maybe 3%. And American clothing is only about 2% woolens. So there is simply very little capacity for pure-USA manufacture of woolens.

Status as of 9 January 2022 --- Ralph

Labor shortages in the Carolinas are making it very difficult for us to spin our warp (the yarn that runs lengthwise through a bolt of fiber).

GULP! --- Some crazy stuff from the Hurricane Ida floods. Nobody hurt, but the production schedule for our FullWeight Fabric (although tailors are completing Black All-Around Jackets now), has been set back months. It seems (we hope!!!) at present that our fiber will be AOK, good as ever, but Littlewood Dye House has decided the flood damage is irreparable. And we can't move forward without dyeing services. So we (and many others!) are trying to re-open another dye house or perhaps switch to another method of dying or have an established dye house start handling wool. We are now working with Tintoria Piana, a very well-respected dye house in Georgia to see if they can handle wool. Their business has been limited to synthetic fibers and cotton but they are looking at wool now, given the circumstances, and their first attempts with our fiber are promising!

Anoraks in various sizes and Fabrics are in stock and shipping now. We have just delivered MidWeight Fabric to the tailors, and expect to be shipping MidWeight Anoraks in both Solid Drab Color and Lynx Pattern in February 2022. If you want an Anorak that we do not have in stock, please backorder on a SHIP ASAP basis.

All-Around Jackets in FullWeight Fabrics Black, Drab, Duff and Lynx Pattern are in stock but some sizes/colors gone.

We hope to make some CPO Shirts and maybe ShirtJacs in MidWeight Fabrics in early 2022.


Our Production Backstory page explains briefly why we were (and still are) sold out of almost all woven garments. If you are interested in a product that is out of stock, please place a no-obligation backorder. We base our production on the garments people have requested. Our Inventory page offers a snapshot of our complete inventory.

We presently have enough wool, in various stages of the Fabric production process, to make about 3000 garments. That's a lot for us, and it's enough to fill  the majority of backorders ... the question is how long it will take. But it's great that production is moving again!

We have recently made more Watch Caps, and Neck Gaiters, which are in stock, but we anticipate these selling out before Christmas. These items are knitted, and therefore very different from the rest of our offerings, which are sewn from woven fabric. The production of the Watch Caps and Neck Gaiters is completely separate from everything else we make. 

Because no commercially available fabrics meet our specifications, we make our own Fabric, which is a significant undertaking in terms both of capital and calendar-time -- it takes several months, at best, to turn raw wool from the ranches into finished Fabric. And the raw wool is generally available only in April, but we have a lot of wool in process now. Making our own 100% American Fabric is the heart of our company ... but that has also been our difficulty.

We have four different batches of Fabric in different stages of the production process: Our expectations:

  • Fabric Batch 5 (click for more info), has been completed and, except for Black, and a little bit of FullWeight Drab and FullWeight Lynx, has been sewn into garments. The last of Batch 5 Fabric is with the tailors now. The virus has played havoc with Batch 5 production.
  • Fabric Batch 6 (click for more info) had to be returned to Chargeurs in South Carolina to make sure there are no problems resulting from the flood.
  • Fabric Batch 7 (click for more info), like Batch 6, is at Chargeurs.
  • Fabric Batch 8 (click for more info) was purchased on 29 April 2021 and will be scoured at Chargeurs shortly.
  • As a result of the flood, we will combine Batches 6, 7 and 8 and call it all Batch 7 (probably).
    • Tailors are pretty well back to pre-virus pace. New York City is still not what I'm used to ... but not nearly as distressingly deserted as it was in July of 2020, when there were so few people we felt like we were on the set of a Science Fiction movie.
    • We are very eager to get going with Mountain/Ski Jackets, Hoodies and other production items, as well as to finalize development and move into production of the Peacoat, North Maine Double Coat, Blankets ...
    • We actually have large backorders across all our products and which ones we make first will be determined by what the tailors can do, what Fabric we have and how many people are waiting.

    Something else ... Before Corona, we received a note from a gent who assumed our lack of inventory reflects a lack of commitment on our part. It's a natural enough assumption to make, I guess, but it's not the case. We are ready, willing, able and absolutely eager to commit enough time, energy and capital to make a great many garments. But the problem -- which existed prior to the virus -- is lack of capacity in the American textile industry. There is just an extremely limited American factory capacity to turn our very specialized raw wool into our very custom finished Fabric and garments. But things are coming together now!

    Thank You for your patience, and for working with us!

    Ralph, Debby, Alex, Denali


    Updated by Ralph on date at top of page.