Hardcore Luxury®

Scouring

Sheep are normally sheared once per year. In the course of the year the fleece picks up a great deal of dirt and other undesirable matter. In addition, the sheep secrete lanolin, which is also held in the fleece.

Scouring removes this undesirable material, which is a very large percentage (by weight) of greasy wool. Lanolin can comprise 10% of the weight, and vegetable matter and other debris as much as 40% or even 50% of the weight of raw wool.

Our greasy wool yields about 53% clean fiber by weight, which means that 47% of the weight is not useful to us. Lanolin is an extremely useful by-product of the scouring, and is sold to cosmetics firms and lubricant makers, among others. But the other 40% of the material coming out of the fleece is waste.

Most companies that make garments buy their fabrics. And most companies that don't buy their fabrics will buy clean fiber. It's mostly only the largest names in the wool business that buy and process their own greasy wool. WeatherWool is quite unusual in that, even though we are a very small company, we source our fiber from the ranches ... and we source only the fiber that is the absolute best for our purposes. This approach costs a lot in time, effort and cash, but it's the only way to achieve our goal of the finest All-Purpose Outerwear.

After we purchase the wool from the Ranchers, scouring is the first step in the process to create Fabric.

Scouring -- preparing the wool to be spun into yarn is the critical initial step in our manufacturing process and Ladd Hughes, manager of the Bollman Scouring Plant in San Angelo, Texas, scoured our first few batches of wool. There are only two places in the USA that scour wool on a true commercial scale, and Chargeurs in South Carolina is the other.

Our wool is very specialized, expensive stuff, and we cannot have contamination from other lots of fiber. So, Ladd scoured our wool first thing on Monday morning, after the line has been thoroughly cleaned over the weekend, and before any other wool is processed.   This timing ensured that no contaminating inferior fiber was present on the scouring line when our wool was cleaned.   Thanks Ladd and Bollman!

Incidentally, the Bollman Family has an honored name in American business, going back to the Bollman Hat Company, founded in 1858 and still making hats.   The folks running Bollman Hat Company also founded American Made Matters.

 WeatherWool makes its own Fabric, starting with raw wool from select ranches. Scouring (cleaning) the raw wool is the first step in the creation of our Fabric.
The warehouse was mostly empty when I visited in January, 2014.
 
 
 WeatherWool makes its own Fabric, starting with raw wool from select ranches. Scouring (cleaning) the raw wool is the first step in the creation of our Fabric.
Bollman uses forklifts that are specially equipped to handle bales of wool.
The bales typically weigh several hundred pounds each.
 
 WeatherWool makes its own Fabric, starting with raw wool from select ranches. Scouring (cleaning) the raw wool is the first step in the creation of our Fabric.
The bales are compressed quite tightly for shipping, and Bollman personnel loosen up the wool prior to processing.
 
 WeatherWool makes its own Fabric, starting with raw wool from select ranches. Scouring (cleaning) the raw wool is the first step in the creation of our Fabric.
Here is a loosened-up bale headed into the scouring line,
where it will be cleaned of debris and about 98% of the natural lanolin (oil).
 
 WeatherWool makes its own Fabric, starting with raw wool from select ranches. Scouring (cleaning) the raw wool is the first step in the creation of our Fabric.
 
In the background is part of the very elaborate scouring line at Bollman.
 

As WeatherWool has grown, we have become large enough that we can work with Chargeurs, who has equipment more compatible with our fiber, but who also has large minimum-size requirements for custom (separate batch) scouring.

Debby and I will be visiting Chargeurs on September 25th, 2020. So in the coming weeks I will be adding to the Chargeurs page.

   

15 September 2020 --- Ralph