North Maine Double Coat
Status Note: We are developing the North Maine Double Coat. We have thought about the NMDC for a long time, and have made the first 'muslin' prototype. Rather than use actual muslin, we used a fine Melton wool that is good enough for design work but a lot less costly (and an orange color we don't like!) than our own Fabric. We'll fiddle with that proto, then perhaps make one or two more Melton protos before making an NMDC in our own Fabric. If you are interested in this item, please let us know, and give us your ideas, too! For a while, we were calling this piece a Jacket, but decided Coat is more appropriate because of the length and weight.
The NMDC will withstand some frightful conditions, although it will also be OK for low levels of activity in mild weather.
The NMDC was originally suggested by Advisor Mike Dean, who is from North Maine. In early 2019, Mike took a solo camping-hiking trip that covered 217 miles (349 km) in temperatures as low as -42F/-41C. During his weeks on the trail, he had no communications and nobody really knew where he was. So he needs to be extremely serious about his gear!
You can indicate interest in the NMDC now by placing an order (price of 0). Before we go to actual production, we will contact you, and you can cancel, change or confirm your order. We'll be happy to hear your design ideas anytime. Please click for more information about backorders, status of our production or our current inventory.
When development is finished, the NMDC will probably be a bespoke piece ... that is, we expect to make only what is spoken for in advance.
Anyone who orders in time to be included in our initial run will get a lower, pre-production price. After development is finished and the first batch is being made, I'm estimating the ongoing price at $1850. Tailoring costs are extremely high for individual pieces or sample runs (less than about 24). We hope to keep the pre-production order price to $1500, but that will depend upon a lot of variables. Sizes larger than 2XLarge will incur extra costs.
The North Maine Double Coat will feature:
- Two layers of our Full-Weight Wool everywhere, covering the entire body and arms
- About 5 inches longer in the body, potentially with a small slit at the bottom rear
- Large Map Pocket between the two layers in the rear of the Jacket, probably closed by zippers
- Huge Cargo Pockets between the two layers of wool in front of the Jacket. We are aware some people want the NMDC more for dress wear than work and woods wear, so the Cargo Pockets will be optional. However, because the Cargo Pockets will be in the space between the two layers of the Jacket, they won't add bulk. Eliminating the Cargo Pockets would really just mean eliminating the entry flaps
- Pouch-style Handwarmer Pockets with slash entry at about 60 degree angle. The Handwarmer pockets will be between the two main layers of the NMDC, and suitable for small items like keys, phone, tissues. Zippers on the Handwarmer Pockets will open upward and close down, minimizing drafts when the hands are inside
- We are making another proto of the NMDC now, and on this proto the Handwarmer and Cargo Pockets will be entered from the same slash
- Because the NMDC will be made-to-order, I'm guessing that we'll wind up offering a degree of customization regarding Map, Cargo and Handwarmer Pockets
- Heavy-duty center-front double zipper protected by a Storm Flap. The Flap will be secured by Slot Buttons made from mil-spec melamine or maybe corozo or mesquite. We'd really like suggestions regarding elegant materials for the Slot Buttons
- Adjustable cuff closures
- Drawstring to snug the waist -- maybe
- Drawstring near the bottom sweep -- maybe
- Secure, zippered inside pockets for electronics, etc. There will be one inner pocket at each side of the chest, and perhaps others, as well
- Potentially Napoleon-entry besom (slash) chest pockets for cell-phone sized objects. These pockets would be entered without opening the center front of the NMDC. These pockets would be sewn to the inside layer of the NMDC, so the only trace of the pocket would be the besom (the trimming around the slash)
- Stovepipe collar that can protect the face up to about the nose if you hunch your shoulders
- The back of the collar will have three buttons to accept the optional Double Hood
- We are developing a Short Cape that can be ordered separately and worn over the shoulders of the NMDC
- We also have a request for an adjustable-width forearm. A customer was concerned the sleeves would be too tight for multiple layers underneath. Maybe ... but with two layers of FullWeight Fabric, it's not clear to me anybody would wear much underneath the NMDC? Another subject for discussion
- In size Large, the NMDC will weigh about 10 pounds (4.5 kilos). A very serious and heavy coat!!
Please give us your ideas. Below are a couple of photos of the first prototype, which was made with some semi-orange (NOT one of our colors and NOT our Fabric either!) wool fabric that is suitable for a muslin prototype. Next prototype WILL be made from our own Fabric. But these protos show the details of the NMDC better than the photos at left. We've already decided (as described above) to change the Cargo Pockets and add Handwarmer Pockets
This fabric is not WeatherWool and we are using it only for prototypes.
And this is not a WeatherWool color, either!!
Also shown at left are a few photos of Advisor JR Morrissey, who is helping us design the NMDC. These photos were taken on the balcony outside JR's studio in the Garment District of New York City. The jacket is big on JR, and he is wearing the same semi-orange proto shown above, but Denali photoshopped the Black and Drab colors because I don't like the orange!
THANKS -- Ralph, Debby, Alex, Denali
14 July 2020