We are really happy that the Peacoat was been a sell-out-hit for American Trench, and partly because of this effort, quite a few people have asked us to make a Hardcore Luxury® Peacoat. We have also heard from people who are interested in Peacoats in other sizes or other colors, and we have some ideas of our own ... so we've decided to make the Peacoats ourselves, with the blessing of American Trench.
Please indicate your interest by placing a $0 order ... we expect to make a run of Peacoats in 2021, and we'll get in touch with everyone who indicates interest here before we proceed. We expect the Peacoats will be about $975, although size 3X will be priced higher. If you feel you need a size larger than 3X, please get in touch directly.
The history of Peacoats is interesting, and is influencing our plans. Not surprisingly, the design is old enough that there is controversy over where it came from, and when. Some sources will claim origins back to the early 1700s. Some claim the word "pea" is a corruption of a Dutch word referring to a coarse wool. We'll definitely not be making anything coarse! A couple of points generally agreed-upon is that the original Peacoat was wool, and oriented toward sailors. The double-breasted front supposedly enabled sailors to shinny and climb a mast without buttons being snagged. Maybe more reasonable, the true double-breast enabled a sailor to button either left-over-right or right-over-left, perhaps depending upon which side the wind was coming from ... or just to hide some soiled fabric.
We will stick to the original double-breasted design, with a row of Slot Buttons on either side. One thing that is holding us up is my focus on the buttons. We're committed to American-made Slot Buttons, and there are very few choices here. The buttons we use on all our other garments will work fine, but to me don't seem suitable to a Peacoat, because buttons are so prominent on this design. I feel we the buttons need to be larger than our usual, and made of something more interesting and elegant -- but just as functional -- as the mil-spec melamine. It looks like we'll use larger Slot Buttons made from our FullWeight Lynx Pattern Fabric impregnated with thermoplastic resin. These will be difficult and expensive to make, but I think worthwhile!
The Peacoat will have a high collar with a throat latch.
My current plan is to make some Peacoats in the 3rd quarter of 2021. We have some Black Fabric in the works that we expect to be finished in July or August and if we can get the custom Slot Buttons done we'll right away start on some Peacoats in Black (mostly) but also some in Drab and Lynx Pattern. We won't have any Duff Fabric for this first production run.
American Trench has a different philosophy than we do ... their Peacoats have liner Fabrics, as is the industry standard. The liners help the garment slide over other Fabrics. But we will not deviate from our Hardcore Luxury philosophy ... a WeatherWool Peacoat will not have any liner Fabric because in serious weather, anything added to our Merino Jacquard Fabric is a negative. We got some interesting information from a customer who has a Peacoat from American Trench (with liner) as well as a WeatherWool Anorak. He told us that with a slight wind and temperature right around freezing, he could feel a chill in the Peacoat in the areas with the synthetic lining. The customer also said in his Anorak he did not feel that same chill. We knew the liner fabrics would be bad news when wet, but I had not expected a liner to be a detriment in dry cold. This unexpected information strengthens our view that anything but the wool is undesirable from our Hardcore Luxury viewpoint.
The "selfie" picture is Martin H. DiBattista, whose company sewed the Peacoats for American Trench.
The Peacoat is still in development, so we have not yet put up a sizing chart.
THANKS to everyone who worked with American Trench on the Peacoat. It was very exciting for us, as it was our only collaboration with another company.