17 May 2022 --- ROUGH DRAFT OF THIS PAGE!
THANKS to Jay Oelrich of American Woolen!!
When our Fabric has been woven, it comes off the loom as "greige" or "loom-state" fabric, and it must be "finished" before it is ready for the tailors.
From Jay Oelrich
:Jonathan K. Oelrich
Manager of Finishing and Dyeing
In order ...
- Fulling: using water, soap and mechanical action to condense and strengthen the structure of the fabric and blend the appearance of the weave.
- Softening: Using a sustainable concept to improve the hand of the fabric. Softener is applied in drying after fulling.
- Napping: to lift the pile of the fabric which aids in both appearance and weatherproofing.
- Sponging: to condense and preshrink the fabric to improve handling in making the garment and increase density/durability. Sponging relaxes the fabric. Sponging involves steam which may causes fibers to fluff up.
Napping, doublenapping, counternapping, shearing
MidWeight/FullWeight ... napping/shearing MidWeight makes a big difference.
Fulling vs shrinking
17 May 2022 --- Ralph