Hardcore Luxury® ..... No Brag, Just Fact

Inside Stitching

One difficulty we have always had with our jackets is that tailors are used to sewing jackets with inner liners. We don't use liners because -- for performance reasons -- we don't want to have anything in our garments other than our own Fabric. 

Working within our NO LINERS constraints has really flummoxed some of the tailors. Liners hide inside stitching, and tailors have become accustomed to inner liners that hide a lot.

Our inside stitching and seams need to be as slick as the outside, and this requires extra effort and time and an unusual application of skill.

JR, the owner of The Factory8, the company that sews our All-Around Jackets, explained to me some of the difficulties of inside stitching:

The really hard thing about sewing all the WeatherWool garments with no liners is that when you're sewing -- often through very thick layers -- you are sewing blind on the bottom side. On other garments, the bottom side is covered with a liner to hide crooked stitching. With WeatherWool, our operators constantly have to lift up their left hand with the layers to look underneath to check stitching. But looking creates a lot of stop-and-start, which itself is a problem because it tends to lead to erratic stitching on the garment. Combining the blind-sewing with breaking a lot of needles and very very tough thread on heavy fabric makes tailoring WeatherWool a very physical operation. A lot of folks would be surprised how much muscle is necessary to push, pull, lift, flip these heavy garments, especially when you get up into sizes 2X and 3X. And larger sizes would be even more difficult. 

I didn't think about doing this page until I asked Denali for a photo showing the position of the several garment tags that by law must be sewn into our All-Around Jacket. I wanted the tags moved from the normal spot, at the back of the neck, to as harmless a place as possible. The tags are small, but we cannot make them from our Fabric, or any kind of wool. So I really don't want them at the back of the neck, which is a place that needs to be protected as much as possible. In a bad situation, one of the worst places to have a little patch of wet synthetic material is on the back of your neck. So we moved all the tags as shown, where potential harm is minimized.

But as usual, Denali couldn't bring herself to produce a quick photo that, from the point of view of "some people" (that would be me), gets the idea across. So she gave me the image on this page, and remarked that it showcases the inside stitching. Which it surely does. When you handle a WeatherWool garment, particularly the newer ones, please take a close look at the inside tailoring.

 The WeatherWool All-Around Jacket will serve in a huge variety of weather conditions, activities and social settings. Pure WeatherWool Merino Jacquard Wool Fabric and 100% American.  Because WeatherWool does not use inner liners, the INSIDE STITCHING of WeatherWool garments is as visible and as slick as the outside.  Very few tailors are accustomed to inside stitching that is truly finished.
The production crew at The Factory8 did some serious work on this inside (and outside!) stitching.

If you click over to the All-Around Jacket page, you can magnify this image for a better look at the stitching.

Once this page was up, I asked Denali if she would blow up the little section showing the labels, which of course got me started on this topic in the first place ... She said NO, THAT PHOTO IS NOT MEANT TO BE USED AS A CLOSEUP... so ... I'll get the closeup of the labels on here after Denali does another minor photo-shoot ... Perfect ...

 

3 March 2021 --- Ralph